One of the major perks of studying and traveling in Andalucía for a semester was that I got to see the stereotypical side of Spain – flamenco dancing, tapas, and of course, bullfighting. Even though I’m not a fan of bullfighting, it’s not every day that you get to see Spain’s oldest bullfighting ring.
This is the oldest bullfighting ring in Spain in Ronda, Málaga. Or at least that’s what the people there told me! There seems to be some debate, but it’s at least one of the oldest.
Now, I have a bullfighting confession to make. I didn’t realize they actually killed the bulls at the end of the fights until I came to Spain! I thought it was more like a rodeo; it honestly never occurred to me that they would kill it. So the museum and photo collection at the bullfighting ring were definitely a bit of a shock!
Since then, I’ve adjusted to the idea, but I refuse to see a bullfight and don’t support it. It seems like young Spanish people are much more opposed to bullfighting than older Spaniards (none of my friends support it).
Of course, it could be biased based on where I live. The Catalans officially banned bullfighting and held their last fight in Catalonia in Barcelona last September. The only other place in Spain that it’s banned is in the Canary Islands.
Andalucía, however, seems to have no plans to ban the traditional Spanish corrida de toros.
I’m curious – has anybody been to a bullfight? What was it like? For any Spain expats reading, what’s the attitude towards bullfighting in your region?
Besos!
-Jess
I went to a bullfight in Seville (which I thought was the oldest bull ring in Spain.) It was … interesting. I felt a bit conflicted about the entire thing. I’m glad I experienced it but I don’t think I’ll do it again.
I blogged about it awhile back if you are interested.
http://www.fromtheretoheretheblog.com/2012/06/seville-bull-fight.html
I’ve heard that the one in Sevilla is a replica…but I have no idea if that’s true or not. They also don’t seem to be able to agree on which one is actually the oldest!
Thanks for the link to your post, it’s really fascinating and you have some amazing photos.
Ronda is beautiful! I loved it there, and getting to walk around the actual bullring was pretty cool too. I’ve been to a couple of bullfights in Spain, and they’re pretty painful to watch. I remember I thought they only kill one bull at a corrida when I went to my first one in 2007, and it turns out they kill 6! Not for the fainthearted.
I loved Ronda too! It’s so stunning.
I was surprised that they killed one bull, so I was absolutely shocked to learn they killed 6. They sound pretty difficult to watch.
I didn’t go to a bullfight, but I ended up watching them on tv with the abuelo at the guesthouse I stayed at in Seville. He excitedly explained every aspect of the fight, and the various jobs of everyone in the ring.
I knew beforehand the bull died at the end, but it didn’t happened like I thought it would. I was expecting something dramatic and violent, but in the three 20-minute fights I watched, the bull just laid down and that was it.
Seeing it on tv was more than enough an experience with bullfighting, since I now know I couldn’t tolerate watching it live.
Hmm I would expect something dramatic and violent too – maybe because it had been weakened already? I don’t know though, and I doubt I’ll ever get into bullfighting to find out.
Back in 2006 a friend convinced me to accompany him to Monumental here in Barcelona. It was some type of promo event, so the tickets cost less than 5€ each. Fortunately, I was able to sneak in without being noticed by too many protestors (some of whom were almost certainly friends and/or students of mine). Inside, the crowd was a mix of older Spanish people, mostly Japanese tourists, and, curiously, a large group of young Mormons. Most of the Japanese seemed mildly repulsed by the whole thing, though still deemed it photo-worthy. The older Spanish folk were definitely hard-core fans, complete with the wine skins, chorizo sandwiches, and the white rag to wave when you like what you’re seeing. I noticed a few of the Japanese and the Mormons had improvised with paper tissues or handkerchiefs. I had left my kleenex at home that day.
As far as my personal feelings, I have to say that I found the whole thing a bit savage in nature. I wasn’t brought to tears, and I never had to look away at any point, as I grew up on a steady diet of horror films and recently some of the more macabre images the internet has to offer. Savage and a bit boring. I did like the music though (paso doble?), but my friend explained that this is because I’m guiri.
I’m definitely not sad to see bullfighting gone from Catalunya, but I’m don’t carry this rabid hatred of it either. I’d feel like a bit of a hypocrite, the dedicated carnivore that I am, if I were to declare myself an official anti-taurino activist. I’m a dedicated meat-eater, but also an informed one. I’ve read my Sinclair Lewis and seen my fair share of behind-the-scenes meatpacking documentaries to know that the cow for my hamburger didn’t die peacefully in its sleep. From what I know of the animals raised for the bullfights, they live fairly pampered lives compared to their BigMac-bound compañeros. Except for that last half-hour or so. So, yeah, definitely not a fan of the fights, but I wouldn’t feel right protesting outisde the arena and going for a burger afterward either.
oops…I meant Upton Sinclair….it’s been a while.
That’s really interesting! I haven’t found any young Spaniards that are pro-bullfighting, so I’m not surprised the crowd was older. Not sure why the Mormons were there though!
The carnivore point is a good one, I feel the same way.
It was actually part of the itinerary for my study abroad program to take us to a bullfight at the Real Maestranza in Sevilla. It was paid for by the program. I knew before coming to Spain that the bulls were killed, & that they would stick them a few times before the matador would come out so that they’d be weakened from blood loss (I learned that apparently they do it to lower the blood pressure and strain on its heart so the bull won’t have a heart attack due to the shock of suddenly being in a small ring surrounded by a mass of screaming humans), but I had no idea about anything else. I found out right before going that 6 bulls are killed each time, so that each of the 3 matadors kills 2 bulls. Other than that I had no idea what to expect. Many Americans got up & left after the 1st or 2nd fights, but my friends and I stayed to the end and endured watching 6 fights because we knew this would be the one & only time in our lives we’d be attending one of these events & wanted to see everything so we’d have a better idea of what all the fuss is about. Afterwards we all kinda walked out in a state of numb disbelief. I know that personally, I will never go to another bullfight for as long as I live, but one of my classmates had grown up in Mexico & had gone to bullfights as a child, so she actually enjoyed it. I don’t think it’s my place as a foreigner to say whether Spain should ban bullfighting or not, so I won’t give an opinion on that, but I do know the issue is very complicated. A Spaniard explained to me that if there is no more bullfighting, then there would be no need for bulls in Spain (it costs loads of money to breed “toros bravos” & maintain the acres upon acres of land they roam happily & freely on until the day of their death), & that basically they would all just be eaten. Btw, that’s what happens to the bulls killed in the ring– every part gets eaten or used for something. All of my Spanish friends are also opposed to bull fighting & a few have expressed embarrassment that they live in a country that not only allows it, but is partly identified by it. However, it seems to be the case that a love of the “sport” is carried on from one generation to the next. A man will go because his father took him, and his father before that, and so on. So it stays in the family. The majority of people opposed to bullfighting were not raised in a family that went to the fights. In addition, Bullfighting’s popularity definitely varies by region. In Valencia, they’re taking it back to its original form that bullfighting evolved from, the way the ancient Minoan civilization in Crete would do it — bull jumping. A lot of people like this better because the bulls are not killed & it puts man & bull on an equal playing field. Personally, I think that’s a better alternative. Ah! Just realized how long this comment is! But hope it answers your question. Love your blog, & I hope to do what you’re doing someday soon!
It was actually part of the itinerary for my study abroad program to take us to a bullfight at the Real Maestranza in Sevilla. Since it was already paid for, I figured I might as well go. I knew before coming to Spain that the bulls were killed, & that they would stick them a few times before the matador would come out so that they’d be weakened from blood loss (I learned that apparently they do it to lower the blood pressure and strain on its heart so the bull won’t have a heart attack due to the shock of suddenly being in a small ring surrounded by a mass of screaming humans), but I had no idea about anything else. I found out right before going that 6 bulls are killed each time, so that each of the 3 matadors kills 2 bulls. Other than that I had no idea what to expect. Many Americans got up & left after the 1st or 2nd fights, but my friends and I stayed to the end and endured watching 6 fights because we knew this would be the one & only time in our lives we’d be attending one of these events & wanted to see everything so we’d have a better idea of what all the fuss is about. Afterwards we all kinda walked out in a state of numb dusbelief. I did cry, & I know that personally, I will never go to another bullfight for as long as I live, but one of my classmates had grown up in Mexico & had gone to bullfights as a child, so she actually enjoyed it. I don’t think it’s my place as a foreigner to say whether Spain should ban bullfighting or not, so I won’t give an opinion on that, but I do know the issue is very complicated. A Spaniard explained to me that if there is no more bullfighting, then there would be no need for bulls in Spain (it costs loads of money to breed “toros bravos” & maintain the acres upon acres of land they roam happily & freely on until the day of their death), & that basically they would all just be eaten. Btw, that’s what happens to the bulls killed in the ring– every part gets eaten or used for something. All of my Spanish friends are also opposed to bull fighting & a few have expressed embarrassment that they live in a country that not only allows it, but is partly identified by it. However, it seems to be the case that a love of the “sport” is carried on from one generation to the next. A man will go because his father took him, and his father before that, and so on. So it stays in the family. The majority of people opposed to bullfighting were not raised in a family that went to the fights. Bullfighting’s popularity definitely varies by region. In Valencia, they’re taking it back to its original form that bullfighting evolved from, the way the ancient Minoan civilization in Crete would do it — bull jumping. A lot of people like this better because the bulls are not killed & it puts man & bull on an equal playing field. Long comment, but I hope it answers your question! I love your blog, & I hope to do what you’re doing someday soon!
That’s so interesting! My program offered to arrange something if we were interested, but we weren’t. I don’t think I’d be able to stay for the whole spectacle.
I did know they ate the bull afterwards, which I’ve heard as a pro-corrida argument as they don’t let the animal go to waste.
Thanks for your comment and your kind words about my blog! 🙂
I was there as a child, so it must be old. We could only afford the cheap seats – in the sun.
Oh right, they do pricing by how much sun the seats get, don’t they? Sol, sol y sombra, and sombra, I think.
I think you’re right.
I went to my one and only bullfight while a student in Madrid (5/17/81). I felt I had to go to one. And one was quite enough, thank you. It may be considered an “art form” by some in Spain but I think it is just plain cruel. I’m happy I went to one but I won’t ever go to another. When I took hubby and kidlet to Spain two years ago I recall asking him “did you want to see a bullfight?” I don’t recall his exact response but it may have been “no thanks.” I would have gone if he wanted to, but I’m glad he didn’t want to go.
It’s not something I’m interested in seeing either. I might feel like I had to go to one more if I lived in a region that was proud of it, but the Catalans agree that it’s cruel.
they’re obviously sensible people 🙂
I´ve never been to a bullfight, yet because of that feel that maybe I´ve no right to comment about them. I know I wouldn´t like to see one bull weakened and killed – let along 6 🙁
Agreed! Moral arguments aside, it doesn’t sound at all fun and enjoyable.